Category Archives: Reviews

Les Néréides – Patchouli Antique

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Les Néréides – Patchouli Antique

the-university-club-library

Perfumistas are nothing if not passionate. After all, it takes considerable dedication to be a perfume collector, especially when your beloved fragrances are niche or worse – discontinued. While each certainly possesses her favorite scent or fragrance genre, there are those notes which are certain to provoke impassioned responses.

Patchouli is among the more polarizing scents. It offends on a wide range – those who dislike its sharp medicinal qualities, as well as those who cannot escape its hippie era associations. For those of us who adore patchouli however it is often these very qualities we find irresistible. While some fragrances use patchouli sparingly to impart a woody, slightly dusty quality to balance a fragrance, Patchouli Antique is more a study in patchouli.

Patchouli Antique starts off with a slightly green medicinal tang, the perfect introduction to the rich, woody warmth of patchouli. The aptly named Patchouli Antique calls to mind the deep aroma of damp earth and musky dustiness, not unlike unearthing a treasure trove of antique books in a dark attic.

The fragrance softens and mellows like a warm wooly shawl thanks to a hint of vanilla and musk, which play perfectly on patchouli’s hints of chocolate. Truth be told, I am personally not a fan of vanilla in fragrances but in the case of Patchouli Antique it serves to smooth over the slightly bitter herbal beginning in a manner reminiscent of Shalimar, rendering the fragrances as warm and enveloping as a soft robe.

When compared with Chanel’s Coromandel or Serge Luten’s Borneo 1834, both of which are patchouli powerhouses, Patchouli Antique is more one-dimensional. It is a fairly close rendition of the type of high quality patchouli oil you can find in a specialty store, but with a calming, powdery warmth in the final notes.

Notes: Patchouli, Vanilla, Musk

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Gucci – Rush

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Gucci Rush

Gucci Rush

Like many dedicated perfumistas, my fragrance collection spans a wide variety of genres: from the ultra-rare and “très cher” to the timeless and chic, without discrimination for cost, high or low as it may be. After all there are still bargain fragrances out there, and while the folks at Chanel would have us forget, there was a time when Chanel No 5 could be found in drugstores.

All of this by way of introduction. While some fragrances are no doubt contemplative à la Serge Lutens or intellectual (here’s looking at you Guerlain), we must all leave a bit of room for pure, unadultered joy.

No fragrance lends itself better to this category in my opinion than Gucci Rush. Though it has references to some of the great classics, like Mitsouko and Diorella, they are delivered with the tongue in cheek, larger-than-could-possibly-be-tasteful style of Gucci under Tom Ford’s reign.

Gucci Rush starts off with a blast reminiscent of hairspray and fruit – in fact it feels like poking your head into a young woman’s room as she is preparing for a fun night out with friends: scented bath gel, fruity shampoo, hairspray, perfume and body lotion. Rush is like a cacophony of scents that should not work together but absolutely do, as evidenced by the number of suitors this young woman has attracted after a night of dancing.

Rush’s white florals are sparkling and playful, leaving the heavier indoles to its more serious floral sisters. A hint of coriander lends dry spice and drama to the fragrance and keeps it from veering into a traditional fruity floral. The drydown is pure, if not strange, olfactory heaven.

Rush morphs into a synthetic milky peach which lacks Mitsouko’s solemnity but is nevertheless beautiful. Similar to Dior’s Diorella, Rush’s peach is warmed and mellowed by patchouli, but Rush manages to maintain a modern, slightly plasticky edge.

Rush is a terrific fragrance for going out, or for those days when the gravity of life is too much to handle. Despite the beauty and elegance of its composition, Rush does not take itself too seriously (as evidenced by it’s plastic, cassette-like flacon) and maintains a joyful edge.

While with most posts I search for an image to convey the visual equivalent of the olfactory sensation, Rush couldn’t be contained to a two-dimensional image. Embedded then is a link to a remix of French singer Yelle’s “A Cause de Garçons” – the perfect combination of fun, trash, brash and the simple joy of movement. What a genius Michel Almairac has proven to be.

Notes: Gardenia, Freesia, Jasmine, Rose, Coriander, Vanilla, Patchouli, Vetiver.

 

Flu Season

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Flu Season

sick woman

No one likes feeling unwell, but for those of us that relish their daily dose of fragrance, a stuffy nose can be especially distressing. So what to do on those days when we cannot smell our favorite fragrance or worse, the scent of any complex fragrance sends us into a sneezing fit or brings on a seasonal migraine?

Here are a few scented luxuries which can help you survive the flu season and bring some relief as a result.

Tea Tree Oil – Tea Tree Oil is derived from the leaves of the tea tree. It has been touted as a cure-all for conditions ranging from acne and skin infections if applied topically to sore throat and ear infections. My favorite is adding it to a steamy bath, or better yet a humidifier – it works wonders on coughs and congestion. Tea Tree Oil has a pleasant, slightly medicinal scent somewhat similar to eucalyptus – the scent is a comfort in itself – one small whiff and I know I am on the road to recovery.

Ginger – Ginger works wonders for sore throats and upset tummies. A small, peeled knob boiled in water makes a wonderful tea, especially when mixed with a little lemon juice and honey. My favorite however is to boil it in some savory broth and add some spicy lemon pepper. It is a sure-fire fever reducer and reminds me of the exciting and exotic perfumes which I will be wearing once the flu has departed.

Lavender – Lavender has been used for centuries in various preparations and its scent is known for its calming effect. Lavender oil can also be used to relieve migraines and bring relief to those suffering from sinus infections. Like Tea Tree Oil, a few drops in the bath or a humidifier should do the trick. Aside from its relaxing scent, Lavender is the quintessential symbol of the South of France. What better way to relax than to imagine beautiful fields of Lavender swaying in the warm summer Provençal breeze!

French Lavender Fields

Vicks VapoRub – a traditional cure-all for congestion and coughs, Vicks has a strong menthol smell which many find off-putting. Vicks to me conjures memories of being cared for by my mother and grandmother – so nothing could be more comforting. Aside from the immediate relief it provides from painful congestion and respiratory distress, the icy menthol blast calls to mind one of my favorite fragrances, Tubereuse Criminelle and reminds me that my days of sickness are sure to be limited.

Linden Tea – Fever, congestion and aches and pains can make it difficult to relax for sleep. Linden Tea, or Tilleul or Tilo as it is known in French and Spanish, makes a wonderfully relaxing tea and is known for relieving insomnia, anxiety and is even believed to reduce blood pressure. Linden Tea is  also widely used in Europe for its diaphoretic or fever-reducing effects. It has a mild, slightly honeyed, herbal flavor which makes it perfect for inducing sleep.

Wishing all my readers good health!

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Nina Ricci – Farouche

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Nina Ricci – Farouche

43092-nina-ricci-perfumes-1975-farouche-photo-david-hamilton-hprints-com-1

The Nina Ricci fragrance line is one that I did not traditionally have much exposure to growing up, as none of the women in my family wore it. I did have a distant aunt who sometimes wore L’Air du Temps, but we’ll save that for another post. No wonder then that the house’s 1973 release Farouche failed to catch my attention until now (there were after all plenty of other fragrances to keep me busy).

I recently purchased an assortment of vintage perfume minis, and one fragrance included in the assortment was Nina Ricci’s Farouche in the Eau de Toilette concentration. While I have a decent knowledge of French, I will admit that I was not familiar with the word “Farouche”. Interestingly, I did not look it up until after I had tested the fragrance several times, fearing it might skew my impression. In that vein, I will keep its meaning silent until the end of the post.

Farouche opens with some fizzy aldehydes adding lift to a soft orange and galbanum melange. While galbanum fragrances generally make weak in the knees, Farouche comes on like a whisper. The heart unfolds to a gentle floral bouquet of jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and geranium, to which iris lends a hint of powder, While carnation and clary sage add a bit of a twist, Farouche’s overall character remains moderate. The fragrance wafts up again after a about an hour or so, revealing a mossy, vetiver base, reminiscent of classics such as Ma Griffe, but executed with a subtle hand.

In fact, my main issue with Farouche was its faint presence, which made an otherwise lovely fragrance with all of the hallmarks of a classic, slightly forgettable in the face of other mossy, green giants. That being said, this lightness of character would make it a perfect scent for someone just starting to explore the genre, as it touches on all of the aspects of a mossy green floral. I can only imagine how lovely the parfum concentration must be, though I have heard that is subtle as well. The Eau de Toilette bottle is lovely, with its slender neck is reminiscent of a swan, while the flacon for the parfum (reportedly made by Lalique) resembles a heart.

And in case you are still wondering (and have not searched for it yourself), Farouche translates as shy. Perfect.

Floral Aldehyde

Notes: Aldehydes, Mandarin, Bergamot, Galbanum, Peach, Honeysuckle, Carnation, Iris, Lily, Clary Sage, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-Valley, Rose, Geranium, Cardamom, Sandalwood, Amber, Musk, Oakmoss, Vetiver.

 

Caron – Parfum Sacré

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Caron – Parfum Sacré

caron Perfumes Parfum Sacre There are those loves which we know will endure forever. Such is the beauty of this peppery rose-inspired fragrance by Caron. But where Caron’s Rose is simple and Marni is sheer and evanescent, Parfum Sacré positively smolders, bringing new depths to the pepper-rose combination.

As the vintage advertisement for Caron perfumes at left attests “What is seduction if not a man, a woman and a Caron perfume?” While the fragrance’s name references the sacred, Parfum Sacré is nothing if not sensual.

Though Parfum Sacré opens with a burst of lively, citrusy pepper and spices, like many Caron fragrances, it is perfectly blended to create an more of an overall impression. Despite its spicy opening, Parfum Sacré is as warm and enveloping as a lover’s embrace. The presence of rose lends a velvety texture to the underlying woods and spices, elements which on their own can often be perceived as dry.

Though vanilla and floral notes make an appearance, it is only to support the romance between rose and spices. While the distinct Caron drydown is recognizable, it remains enrobed in the warm, dark rose, adding a hint a smoky drama.

While both the extrait and Eau de Parfum have impressive lasting power, they wear fairly close to the skin, making for an intimate yet luxurious fragrance experience. While the vintage versions have more complexity and depth (especially the extrait which is truly magical) the reformulated version available today is a reasonably close facsimile and worth seeking out for those seeking an elegant and unusual rose-tinged oriental.

Notes: Vanilla, Myrrh, Civet, Cedarwood, Lemon, Pepper, Mace, Cardamom, Orange Blossom, Rose, Jasmine, Rosewood

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Guerlain – Nahéma

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Guerlain – Nahéma

catherine-deneuve-benjamin1

Still from Benjamin ou les Mémoires d’un Puceau”

“Mon grand-père Jacques m’a dit un jour:

‘Mon petit, n’oublie jamais que l’on crée toujours des parfums pour les femmes qu’on aime, qu’on admire et avec lesquelles on vit’

Et c’est comme cela que tout a commencé.”

 

“One day my grandfather Jacques said to me

‘My little one, never forget that one always creates perfumes for the women one loves, admires and those with whom one lives.’

And that is how it all began.”

So begins the book “Parfums d’Amour” by Jean-Paul Guerlain, in which he describes the journeys, both literal and figurative, he undertook to arrive at his fragrant creations and the women who inspired him. Although the story behind the inspiration for Nahéma does not appear in Parfums d’Amour, this introduction could not more perfectly describe the fragrance, which along with Jicky, is perhaps among the more well-known of Jean-Paul’s amorous anecdotes.

What would a perfume inspired by the paragon of beauty, Catherine Deneuve, smell of? For Jean-Paul Guerlain, whose 1979 fragrance Nahema was inspired by the award-winning, supremely talented and breathtakingly beautiful actress, the answer was simple. The archetypal symbol of romantic love: the rose. And what a rose he created.

Legend has it that Jean-Paul made 138 attempts at the creation before reaching perfection. Nahéma, which translates as “born of fire” or the “fiery one” is an incredibly ripe, lush rose.  With its plummy and peachy facets, which give the fragrance a fullness and ripeness well beyond a simple soliflore, he achieved a rose so compelling that it takes on a nearly three-dimensional aspect. While rose fragrances are often dismissed as being “old-fashioned”, Hyacinth adds a delicious tension to the fragrance, making this a rose that could never be mistaken for anything less than a sexpot.

catherine deneuve benjamin 1

While I do not find Nahema to be particularly “fiery”, there are oriental aspects which when combined with the ripe fruit notes and Ylang-Ylang suggest a degree of feminine intimacy, not unlike Rochas Femme. Much like a young Catherine Deneuve, Nahéma is inexplicably lush and sensual, like a woman in a crimson velvet gown full of voluptuous curves.

Notes: Peach, Bergamot, Citrus Notes, Aldehydes, Green Notes, Rose, Jasmine, Lilac, Hyacinth, Lily of the Valley, Ylang-Ylang, Peru Balsam, Vanilla, Vetiver, Sandalwood

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Caron – Rose

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Caron – Rose

Rose Buds

Of the rose fragrances which I will cover as part of this series, Caron Rose, launched in 1949, is among the simplest. Meant to invoke the idea of a rose solifore, or a fragrance centered around a single floral note, Caron Rose is like a throwback to the early 1900s when fragrances based on a single flower were all that women wore.

But as we all know, even a single flower possesses a delicious complexity – sharp and green at the outset until its scent softens as the bud ripens and unfurls. Caron Rose travels along this scent trajectory like stop-time photography. Watching it unfold makes me think of all the facets that make a rose, rose-like and the challenges a perfumer faces when trying to duplicate nature. Which aspects to enhance and which to downplay? Just as no two flowers are alike, a close study of a rose by ten different perfumers would surely yield ten different results.

Caron Rose Urn Bottle

Michael Morsetti, the perfumer credited with Rose’s creation, set out to capture the scent of a young rose. The initial bite of lemon laced with spice mimics the firm green bud as it sprouts from the stem, while a touch of rose liquor hints at the bloom to come. Although the distinct rosy elixir impression has a slightly synthetic feel, it dissipates fairly quickly leaving a soft, subtle rose.

While I enjoy Morsetti’s fairly realistic rose impression, my favorite part of the fragrance is the drydown, when the petals fall away to reveal Caron’s signature base of soft, creamy powder, lending the rose a bit of depth and ballast.

Originally one of the Urn perfumes, Caron Rose is now sadly discontinued. While Caron’s Rose would not stand up to other more complex rose contenders, it is perfect for days when I want something beautiful but undemanding. It makes a lovely bedtime fragrance  as well – a little spritz in some hand lotion makes a comforting night-time treat – and it lends itself well to layering with other fragrances in order to add a more prominent rose note.

Notes: Neroli, Roses, Mint, Geranium, Vetiver, Roses, Iris, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Musk

 

 

 

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Caron

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Caron

Often often coined the “Belle Epoque”, Paris in the early 1900s is unparalleled in terms of history and culture. After surviving two major wars, France was blessed with a period of affluence and optimism. With peace and prosperity in full swing, the arts and culture prospered immensely. It was as though people were anxious to make up for lost time after a long period of hardship.

It is no wonder then that this era saw the birth of many perfume houses, including the esteemed House of Caron in 1904. With perfumer Ernest Daltroff at the helm, accompanied by his muse and co-creator Félicie Wanpouille, Caron was responsible for creating many vintage favorites such as Narcisse Noir, Nuit de Noël, Tabac Blond and Bellodgia.

Caron was taken over in 1998 by Patrick Alès, chairman and owner of Alès Groupe (formerly known as Phyto-Lierac). Caron remains in existence today, under the nose of Monsieur Fraysse, in-house perfumer. Caron is unique among perfume houses today for not being tied to a fashion house.

Today I share with you some photos of the sumptuous interiors of the two Caron boutiques in Paris,  located at 34, Avenue Montaigne and 90, Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré. The photographs are courtesy of Caron Paris © and Monsieur Bragmayer.

While stateside there is no avoiding major retail stores when one is in search of fine fragrance, the experience of walking into a specialty boutique is a luxury of uncomparable delight. The urn bottles are simply divine, the stuff of dreams…

 

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Caron – Bellodgia

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Caron – Bellodgia

caron bellodgia

There are certain fragrances which are like a revelation for us, sending our senses reeling as our minds attempt to catalogue all of the myriad impressions they inspire. Bellodgia, created in 1927 by the perfumer Ernest Daltroff, the nose behind such classics as Tabac Blond and Nuit de Noel, is truly revolutionary. While it is often referred to as a study of carnation in all of its spicy glory, and meant to invoke all the beauty of the lovely, sunny seaside town of Bellagio, Italy, Bellodgia’s beauty runs much deeper.

The carnation certainly takes center stage during the opening, and its vibrancy nearly blinds us to the other important figures arranging themselves onstage. The piquant spice of the carnation and lily of the valley is enhanced by a smoky facet with such intensity that it reminds me of the charcoal trail fireworks leave behind. The carnation begins to smolder with the spice of clove, which melts and softens into a creamy, powdery cloud.

In fact, this combination of carnation and clove works so well that it found its way into another incredibly successful fragrance which I shall post about soon. For those few of you fortunate enough to have smelled Guerlain’s Bouquet de Faunes, the clove in Bellodgia takes on a similar character, miles away from its interpretation in Diptyque’s L’Eau.

While with its exotic name, Bellodgia is meant to transport us to summery climes, for me Bellodgia is all about winter. It possesses a deep and embracing character which feels perfect with cashmere and thick, plush scarves and while I can imagine it being worn by elegant women with fur stoles and opera length gloves, it just as beautifully dresses up a pair of blue jeans.

Bellagio Italy

Unlike some of the other vintage Carons, the vintage extrait version of Bellodgia can be found online for a reasonable price. If you are a carnation or clove lover, the vintage is worth seeking out. Unfortunately, I cannot much recommend the modern reformulation which is dissimilar to the original, due in great part to restrictions on many of the original ingredients.

Notes: Carnation, Rose, Jasmine, Violet, Lily of the Valley, Clove, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Musk.   

Clinique – Aromatics Elixir

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Clinique – Aromatics Elixir

aromatics elixir limited edition bottle

Aromatics Elixir 2011 Limited Edition Flacon

Perfumistas are nothing if not passionate. Researching fragrances and scouring stores and the internet for treasure requires dedication and persistence. As we all know, negative passions can be equally strong, if not more so, and many perfume boards are filled with rants against one or another fragrance.

With its bold lemony opening and bitter, slightly medicinal herbal quality, Aromatics Elixir is often the subject of vitriol. Its minimalist flacon and sunny packaging are somewhat misleading, as this elixir has deep and dark undercurrents. This 1971 creation by the masterful Bertrand Chant is clearly a product of its times with its emphasis on earthy oakmoss and patchouli, though its potent sillage seems to foreshadow the oversized perfumes of the 1980s.

And yet, smelled today, Aromatics Elixir feels new and compelling. Where fragrance after fragrance in today’s market copy Angel’s groundbreaking patchouli theme to play out variations of the sweet, fluffy gourmand, Aromatics Elixir seems austere and intelligent – a sort of bookish brunette. The fragrance delivers a bit of everything: citrus, florals, herbs and woods and yet is so masterfully blended as to create a seamless impression. If some creations shower their wearer in a veil of scent, Aromatics Elixir wraps them in a thick tapestry.

aromatics elixir

While the opening is bold and brash, as the fragrance starts to unfold, the more subtle interplay of rose and patchouli become apparent and this is where love strikes. The volume comes down to more muted tones, allowing the beauty of patchouli-tinged woods to shine through.  While many complain of the fragrance’s volume, Aromatics Elixir maintains a crisp, dry quality that prevents the patchouli from becoming overly earthy and heavy. Indeed, it is a wonder how Bertrand Chant was able to create a fragrance that is at once both supremely rich and yet light. 

The bottle shown above was a limited edition issued in 2011 to commemorate the fragrance’s 40th birthday. For those not brave enough to try the original, an update called Aromatics Elixir Perfumer’s Reserve was issued which focused on modernizing (and lightening) the original. For what constitutes a reasonably priced fragrance in today’s market, the quality of materials seems superb – perhaps a byproduct of the simple packaging and minimal marketing.

Notes: Rose, Chamomile, Oakmoss, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Ylang Ylang, Patchouli, Musk, Amber, Sandalwood.

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